The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that energy."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful perceives a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is increasingly evident: the growth of populist movements, the pushback against social awareness, and the return of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, currently a different political personality appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the response has long been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of cultural icons from politics.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he says, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I believe this moment will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would shape a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and representation. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew.

"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Defying the stereotype of fashion editors as loud and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His path has involved challenges, including publicly shared periods of depression and addiction.

He has also undergone serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to be defined narrowly has propelled him outside the world that built his career. He is now putting together a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and spotlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to promote the most relevant talents because they did not have the right pedigree," he observes.

This project itself uses a different strategy, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "Our approach is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Edward of the 90s react to the Edward of today? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."